To test a lawn mower ignition coil with a multimeter, set the multimeter to the ohms (resistance) setting, then measure the resistance between the coil’s primary terminals and between the primary and secondary terminals. Typical readings are around 0.5 to 2 ohms for the primary winding and 5,000 to 15,000 ohms for the secondary winding, though exact values vary by model. A reading of infinite resistance (open circuit) or zero (short) indicates a faulty coil that should be replaced. Always consult the mower’s service manual for the correct resistance specifications.
What Is an Ignition Coil and How It Works
The ignition coil is a critical component in your lawn mower’s ignition system. Its job is to transform the low voltage from the battery or magneto into the high voltage needed to create a spark at the spark plug. This spark ignites the air-fuel mixture in the engine cylinder, which is what makes the engine run.
In simple terms, the coil consists of two windings of wire wrapped around an iron core. The primary winding has fewer turns of thicker wire, while the secondary winding has many more turns of thinner wire. When current flows through the primary winding and is suddenly interrupted, the collapsing magnetic field induces a high voltage in the secondary winding. That voltage travels through the spark plug wire to the plug, producing the spark.
If the coil fails, the engine may not start, may run poorly, or may stall under load. Common symptoms of a faulty ignition coil include no spark at the plug, weak or intermittent spark, hard starting, misfiring, and reduced engine power. If you suspect the coil is the problem, testing it with a multimeter is a straightforward way to confirm the diagnosis before spending money on a replacement part.
Tools and Safety Precautions
Before you begin testing, gather the tools you will need. At minimum, you will need a digital multimeter capable of measuring resistance in ohms. Some coils also require testing for continuity, which the same meter can handle. You may also want a screwdriver or socket set to remove the coil from the engine, and a shop towel to clean the area around the coil.
Safety should always come first when working on any engine. Disconnect the spark plug wire and ground it away from the plug to prevent accidental starting. If the mower has a battery, disconnect the negative battery cable as well. Make sure the engine is cool before you begin, and work in a well-ventilated area away from fuel or other flammable materials.
When handling the multimeter, ensure the leads are in good condition with no exposed wires. Set the meter to the ohms setting, usually indicated by the Greek letter omega (Ω). If your meter has multiple resistance ranges, start with the lowest range and adjust as needed. For secondary winding tests, you may need a higher range such as 20k or 200k ohms.
It is also wise to consult your mower’s service manual before testing. The manual will provide the exact resistance specifications for your specific model, which is more reliable than relying on general ranges. If you do not have the manual, many manufacturers publish specifications online.
How to Test Primary Coil Resistance
The primary winding is the low-voltage side of the coil. To test it, you first need to identify the primary terminals. On most lawn mower coils, these are the small terminals where the kill wire or power wire connects. There are typically two such terminals, often labeled with a plus and minus sign or simply marked as primary connections.
Set your multimeter to the ohms setting and choose a low resistance range, such as 200 ohms. Touch one probe to each primary terminal. The meter should display a resistance reading. For most lawn mower coils, the primary resistance falls between 0.5 and 2 ohms. Some coils may read slightly higher or lower, so it is important to compare your reading to the manufacturer’s specification.
If the reading is zero ohms, the primary winding may be shorted. If the meter shows infinite resistance, indicated by a display of “1” or “OL” (overload), the winding is open. Both conditions indicate a faulty coil that will not function properly.
Keep in mind that a very low resistance reading can be difficult to measure accurately with a basic multimeter. The resistance of the test leads themselves can add a small amount to the reading. To account for this, you can touch the two probes together first and note the reading, then subtract that value from your coil measurement for a more accurate result.
How to Test Secondary Coil Resistance
The secondary winding is the high-voltage side of the coil. Testing it requires a different setup. On most lawn mower coils, the secondary terminal is the large terminal where the spark plug wire connects. You will measure resistance between this terminal and one of the primary terminals.
Set your multimeter to a higher resistance range, such as 20k or 200k ohms, because the secondary winding has much higher resistance. Place one probe on the spark plug wire terminal and the other probe on the primary terminal you used earlier. The expected reading is typically between 5,000 and 15,000 ohms for a healthy coil, though this range can vary significantly by model and manufacturer.
If the reading is much lower than expected, the secondary winding may be shorted. If the meter shows infinite resistance, the winding is open and the coil will not produce a spark. Either result means the coil should be replaced.
Some coils have a separate spark plug wire that can be removed, allowing you to test directly at the coil terminal. If the wire is not removable, you can test through the wire itself, but be aware that the resistance of the wire adds to your reading. In that case, a slightly higher reading is normal.
How to Test for Continuity and Shorts
Beyond measuring resistance, you can also test the coil for continuity and for shorts to ground. Continuity testing confirms that the electrical path through the coil is complete. Most multimeters have a dedicated continuity mode that beeps when there is a complete circuit. This is a quick way to check whether the primary or secondary winding is open.
To test for a short to ground, place one probe on a coil terminal and the other probe on the metal core or mounting bracket of the coil. The meter should show infinite resistance, meaning no electrical connection to ground. If you get a low resistance reading or continuity, the coil is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
It is also worth inspecting the coil visually. Look for cracks, burn marks, or signs of overheating on the coil body or the spark plug wire. A damaged wire or cracked insulation can cause intermittent spark even if the resistance readings appear normal. In such cases, replacing the wire or the coil may resolve the issue.
Remember that an infinite resistance reading on any winding indicates an open circuit, while a zero or near-zero reading indicates a short. Both are signs of a faulty coil. However, a reading within the expected range does not guarantee the coil is perfect, as internal breakdowns can sometimes occur under load that are not detectable with a simple resistance test.
Interpreting Results and When to Replace the Coil
Once you have taken your measurements, compare them to the specifications in your service manual. If your primary winding reads within the expected range and your secondary winding also falls within spec, the coil is likely in good condition. In that case, the problem may lie elsewhere in the ignition system, such as the spark plug, spark plug wire, flywheel key, or the kill switch circuit.
If either winding shows infinite resistance or a very low reading, the coil is faulty and should be replaced. A coil with an open primary or secondary winding cannot generate the voltage needed to produce a spark. Similarly, a coil shorted to ground will not function correctly and should be replaced.
When replacing the coil, purchase a part that matches your mower’s make and model. After installation, set the air gap between the coil and the flywheel according to the manual’s specifications, usually using a business card or a feeler gauge. Then reconnect the spark plug wire and test the mower to confirm it starts and runs smoothly.
If your resistance readings are normal but the mower still has no spark, check the spark plug itself, the plug wire, and the safety switches. A faulty plug or a broken wire can prevent spark even with a healthy coil. Testing these components in order will help you isolate the true cause of the problem.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I test an electronic ignition coil the same way? Electronic ignition systems, often found on newer mowers, may require different testing procedures. Some electronic coils cannot be tested with a simple resistance check and may need a spark tester or specialized diagnostic equipment. Always consult your service manual for the correct method.
Why does my mower have spark but still won’t start? A spark at the plug does not guarantee the engine will start. Other factors include fuel delivery, air filter condition, compression, and timing. If the coil tests fine and you have spark, check the fuel system and compression next.
What if my multimeter shows no reading at all? If the meter shows infinite resistance on both windings, double-check your probe connections and ensure the meter is set to the correct range. Also verify that the test leads are making good contact with the terminals, as corrosion or dirt can interfere with the reading.
Do I need to remove the coil to test it? In many cases you can test the coil while it is still mounted on the engine. However, removing it makes it easier to access the terminals and eliminates the possibility of other components affecting the reading. If you are unsure, remove the coil for a clean test.
